Il Vegetariano

Come early to one of Florence's only vegetarian restaurants and use your coat to save a spot at one of the communal wood tables before heading to the back to get your food.

You pay at the start of the meal, after choosing from the daily selections penned on the wipe board, and take your dishes self-service style from the workers behind the counter.

The menu changes constantly but includes such dishes as risotto with yellow squash and black cabbage; a quichelike pizza rustica of ricotta, olives, tomatoes, and mushrooms; or a plate with farro (emmer) and a hot salad of spinach, onions, sprouts, and bean-curd chunks sautéed in soy sauce.

There's also a nice patio in back, where, if nothing else, you can sip something from the large selection of beers, ciders, and liquors from around the world.