Osteria Santo Spirito

It's hard to miss this hip place right on the square -- funk and dance music pounds from the speakers and the tables are packed -- but the staff might not notice you.

Now bordering on becoming a tourist trap, the wait can be extraordinarily long here (I have waited a full 2 hours before anything arrived at the table), but the food is interesting at least.

You can start with a salad such as pollo pinoli e uvetta con dressing (chicken, pine nut, and raisin), or for pasta try orecchiette Santo Spirito (pasta in spicy tomato sauce with ricotta) or gnocchi di patate gratinati (oven-baked gnocchi swimming in a bubbling-hot mix of soft cheeses flavored with truffle).
Afterward, fill up on filetto di manzo à tartufo (beef filet with truffles) or the cosce d'anatra con la panna (very meaty roasted duck in cream sauce with carrots and bacon).