Within a block of the Palazzo Vecchio is an authentic osteria with a wood-beamed ceiling, brick floor, the end of a giant chianti barrel embedded in one wall, and a handwritten menu that starts Oggi C'è ("Today we got . . .").
As the sign proudly proclaims, this one-room joint is devoted to "wine and old flavors," which means lunch could consist of anything from a rib-sticking stewlike ribollita and a frittata rustica (a darkly fried omelet thick with potatoes and vegetables) to an excellent crostini assortment and scamorza e speck al forno (smoked mozzarella melted with ham in a bowl, to scoop out and slather onto bread).
The paunchy owner will continue pacing back and forth, passing around the lone menu, and welcoming people in off the street until he feels like going home.