Trattoria Le Mossacce

Delicious, cheap, abundant, fast home cooking: This tiny osteria, filled with lunching businesspeople, farmers in from the hills, locals who've been coming since 1942, and a few knowledgeable tourists, is authentic to the bone.

The waiters hate breaking out the printed menu, preferring to rattle off a list of Florentine faves like ribollita, spaghetti alle vongole, crespelle, and lasagne al forno. Unlike in many cheap joints catering to locals, the secondi are pretty good.

You could try the spezzatino (goulashy beef stew) or a well-cooked, and for once cheap, bistecca alla fiorentina, but I put my money on the excellent involtini (thin slices of beef wrapped tightly around a bread stuffing and artichoke hearts, then cooked to juiciness in tomato sauce).